Paris is a magical city full of lush gardens, gorgeous architecture and world renown museums. I’ve seen the Eiffel Tower, gotten lost in the Louvre, and seen plenty of cathedrals. During this recent visit to Paris, I was looking for something a little different, something off the beaten path. Something that my kids and I would both enjoy. How about a magical, slightly bizarre step back in time? That’s where the Musée des Arts Forains (Museum of Fairground Arts) comes in. It’s quirky, fun, and a total hidden gem in Paris.
How to Get There
The Musée des Arts Forains is tucked away in the 12th arrondissement, in the Pavillons de Bercy. To get there, take the Metro Line 14 or bus lines 24, 64 or 87 to Cour Saint-Émilion. Once there, stroll past the cute boutiques and cafes in Bercy Village to get to the museum. Bercy was once the center of the Paris wine trade and the warehouses have been repurposed into delightful buildings with lots of original charm left.
The History of the Museum
The Musée des Arts Forains was founded in 1996 by Jean Paul Favand, a man who took his childhood obsession with fairground art and decided to turn it into a full-blown adult passion project. Favand, who started as an actor and antique dealer, spent years collecting vintage fairground rides, games and ephemera. The museum is like a love letter to a bygone era when people wore top hats unironically and carnival rides didn’t make you nauseous.
The museum contains a variety of objects dating between 1850 and 1950, including 14 amusement rides, 16 fair stalls and restored attractions, 18 sets of historical works, and 1,522 independent works. The collections include merry-go-rounds and carousels, German swings, hundred-year-old bicycles, Japanese billiards, a Parisian Waiter Race and a Hooghuys Organ.
What’s Inside?
This is where the magic is. The Musée des Arts Forains is meant to be experienced. You actually get to play some vintage carnival games and ride on vintage rides.
The museum is divided into several themed areas:
- The Fairground Art Museum: A special tribute to the 19th-century funfair. You’ll see beautifully restored carousels, whimsical carnival games, and mechanical wonders that might make you question what century you’ve stumbled into.
- The Venetian Lounges: As the name suggests, this section is inspired by Venice and the magic of Carnival. It harks back to the extravagant masquerade balls and theater shows of the 19th century with over-the-top costumes, sparkling chandeliers, and a lot of reasons to use the word “fabulous.”There’s even an Italian opera-based show performed by animatrontic Venetians.
- The Theatre of Marvels: This fun area showcases optical illusions, magic mirrors and some rather eccentric performances. Don’t be surprised if you feel a little like Alice falling down the rabbit hole.
To enjoy the museum, you must reserve a spot on a guided tour. Many of the attractions and games are only accessible with the guide, who led us through the museum while explaining the tales of yesteryear (there was a lot of laughter from those that understood French). You’ll get to ride on the antique merry-go-rounds, play some turn-of-the-century carnival games, and maybe even participate in a theatrical performance. It’s all very immersive, very extra, and very much something to write home about—or at least something to make your friends jealous on social media.
The tour ends with a ride on a 19th-century bicycle carousel where you pedal yourself into a dizzying spin–up to 40 mph. This ride is unlike modern rides, everyone couldn’t help smiling and laughing.
HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?
You need tickets to visit the Musée des Arts Forains. There are tours in the morning and afternoon. Tickets are €18 for adults and €12 for children over 4 years old. Most of the tours are in French, although the website mentions there are English tours available. We took the French tour and were provided with a small book that detailed the same information as the tour. It’s best to book your tickets in advance on their website. I purchased our tickets about 5 days out, and there were only a few spots left.
Is It Worth It?
Absolutely. This museum is a journey back in time, filled with the kind of wonder and whimsy that can make even the most cynical crack a smile. Although in fairness, my kids were a bit bored since they didn’t understand the French guide. They perked up when we got the games and rides. As for me, I loved it. I was fascinated by everything. It felt like all the carnival-related historical fiction books I’ve read came to life. Whether you’re a history buff, a lover of all things vintage, or just looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure in Paris, the Musée des Arts Forains should be on your list.
